I have been waiting for a call tonight. My telephone has rung three times, each time just for three rings. One, two, three times I ran in from another room, bent to pick it up and then –

Silence. It stops just before I answer. Is it the person I am waiting for? Is it a prankster? Is it a retard? Is the line damaged? Will I ever know?

court

On the walk from or into town from my way, you pass through the Peace Park. It’s mostly your average park: green grass, people hanging out, sitting or lying in the grass, dozing or watching passers by. Late in the afternoon there will be soccer and rugby practice.

It gets its name from the other major activity that happens here: it’s the place where clans meet to discuss grievances, it’s “court”. People gather in two distinct groups, over several hours. More and more come, usually several hundred; they come in from all over the province, depending on who it involves and what the dispute’s about. Usually it’s about land.

Slowly people will begin talking, in their own groups. Eventually middle aged and older men will get up, air something, make a point, agree, disagree, debate, give up. People between the groups will listen, convey what’s being said, dispute things. Often the air is tense, and with so many people looking angry you don’t loiter. Sometimes an agreement is reached, and people sit around for a few hours, talking it over in their groups. Sometimes a fight erupts and a bush knife will come out, or a bow and arrow, or once or twice a gun has gone off.

But you’re never there when the climax is reached; you might skirt the group several times as you go back and forth, but this process doesn’t run with the clock like you do; it takes the time it needs; the day passes.

I’m not exactly sure how it works, where it fits into the scheme of things here. Tribal fights still go on in PNG, often running for years. They are pretty devastating: schools are torched, hospitals ambushed, homes and gardens destroyed. Injury, rape, death. Everyone loses. I suspect the courts I see involve clans quite a few steps away from tribal fights, but I might be wrong; situations smoulder for ages but inflame quickly here (like the current situation at UPNG).